A Pampered Pedal: Cycling Scotland at 80

 

Story by Jeffrey Heil

Pictures by Joseph Insalaco and Hans-Peter Tinguely

Reaching the age of 80 is a testament to survival—a milestone usually reflected, for us, in decades of self-reliant bike travels. Yet, our journey through Scotland swapped our usual DIY approach for something entirely different: pampered indulgence.

After a day touring Edinburgh, Joe, HP, and I met our guides and our E-bikes to kick off our Scottish travels. On all our past trips, we had planned everything ourselves—selecting routes, booking lodgings, picking restaurants, and hauling our own gear. This time, we were following someone else’s itinerary on rented E-bikes, a luxury we felt we had thoroughly earned at 80 years old.

Redefining 'Roughing It' at the Kelpies

We met our Wilderness Scotland tour guide at a train station north of Edinburgh, where we were joined by Andre and Krista, a lovely Canadian couple. The five of us piled into a van and rode to the start of our cycling route at Scotland’s famous Kelpies monument, the largest equine sculptures in the world.

There, we were directed to our rental bikes for a custom fit and test ride. Before we even set off, our guides filled our water bottles and offered an array of snacks, including trail bars, fresh fruit, and chocolates.

Most of the first day's ride traced the banks of the Firth of Forth (a "firth" being a coastal inlet, and "Forth" being the river). Along the way, we paused to visit Blackness Castle, a striking 15th-century fortress built in the 1440s. It was a short but rewarding first day.

As we arrived at the hotel, our guides collected our bikes, handed us our room keys, and informed us that our luggage was already in our rooms. They told us to simply meet for dinner at 7 p.m. Now, that is the way 80-year-olds deserve to be treated!

Our hotel sat right at the water's edge in the historic town of South Queensferry. A beautifully restored stone building, its restaurant overlooked the River Forth, providing a gorgeous scenic backdrop for our dinner. We were delighted to learn that we could order absolutely anything we wanted from the menu at all our meals and coffee breaks.

This was a far cry from our first tour together. Joe, HP, and I met in 2002 on a group ride across the United States. Back then, we carried all our own gear, slept in tents, and took turns cooking for a group of 18. While that was fine for the time, this tour showed a wonderful respect for our age

Our group was led by Paul—a former Royal Marine, competitive cyclist, sports and wedding photographer, and mountain bike trail designer—who cycled with us each day. Paul is in his early 60s and continuously impressed us with his prowess. He would start by leading the pack, but regularly cycled to the back to check on the last rider's welfare. Then, he would fly back to the front to ensure we didn't miss a turn or to explain a historical site. He even managed this on our biggest climbs!

He was aided by three different van drivers—Craig, Scotty, and Will—who always seemed to materialize right when snacks or water were needed. These men were also guides in their own right, but peeling off to lead other tours.

Wardrobe Roulette and Sleet in St Andrews

Our Scottish journey continued with luxury accommodations, fine meals, and historic attractions, but the second day delivered a classic introduction to Scotland's fickle skies. We started under cool, bright sunshine but spent the rest of the day playing a constant game of wardrobe roulette. The sun would break through the clouds, prompting us to strip off our jackets, only to duck away moments later, forcing us to layer right back up. Occasional light showers drifted through, which we laughed off as a minor inconvenience, right up until the final five miles when the skies opened into a downpour.

In the days that followed, we coasted past Falkland Palace, a beloved haven where Mary, Queen of Scots once took refuge from the political and religious storms of her reign. We made our way to the coast and into St Andrews. The town was buzzing with golfers arriving like pilgrims to the iconic Old Course and its famous Swilcan Bridge.

Leaving St. Andrews, we had another taste of Scotland’s dramatic weather. The horizon turned a menacing black, unleashing a torrent of heavy rain and freezing sleet. The deluge was so severe it knocked out several of our GPS devices, turning the final stretch into a blind, sodden scramble. We arrived at our deluxe hotel in Dundee wet but triumphant.

Conquering the Legendary 16% and 20% Grades

In addition to its fickle weather, Scotland is legendary for its "hills." Leaving Edzell after a wonderful stay at the Glenesk Country House Hotel & Spa, we faced our first massive climb. As the road began to tilt upward, we were immediately hit with a grueling 16% grade. Even with E-bikes, it was a challenging start.

Thankfully, the incline gradually lessened over our two-mile ascent. When we finally conquered Cairn O’Mount, we were rewarded with spectacular, sweeping views that made every bit of effort worthwhile. At the true summit, we celebrated by the ancient stone cairn—a monument said to be 4,000 years old.

To mark the achievement, we indulged in ginger cake and cherry juice, the latter supposedly being the "magical" potion used to restore tired professional cyclists. Looking out, we took in the panoramic views of the wind-swept landscapes dominated by the growth of a low-growing, hardy evergreen shrub. Finally, we mounted our bikes for an exciting descent that likely set new personal speed records for most of us. 

In Ballater, a charming village nestled in the heart of Cairngorms National Park, we stayed in a unique hotel originally owned by a close friend of Rudyard Kipling. In the room that formerly housed the bar, there was a stunning mural based on his classic tale, The Jungle Book.

The next day, we headed deeper into Cairngorms National Park to face three major climbs. Thankfully, we started with a breakfast that left nothing to be desired. In addition to a generous buffet, there was a wide variety of hot dishes available à la carte. Outside, the weather was cool and windy, but sunny. We were happy to swap our rain jackets for sunglasses as we faced the day’s inclines.

First, we cycled through a lovely valley framed by hills and forests to reach our first summit, which rewarded us with a thrilling descent. Next, however, we faced a 20% gradient start that was a "bit more challenging." Reaching the top of the mountain, we rested at the Lecht Ski Centre. Meanwhile, a fierce headwind had picked up, stripping away any hope of a wonderful reward on the way down. The winds were so intense that we actually had to pedal hard just to go downhill! The third climb was not as steep, but we were still plagued by heavy headwinds.

A Sogden Finale on the Moray Coast

Our journey to the North Sea coast began in the fresh, damp morning air against a brutal wind. We were incredibly thankful for our E-bikes. It was a wild ride across a barren landscape, emphasized by the massive, crashing whitecaps on a loch we passed along the way. Seven miles in, we took refuge at a bustling cafe tucked a quarter-mile off the main road. It was packed with motorcyclists, bicyclists, and tourists all seeking the same caffeine fix and relief from the weather.

Like most days, it started to rain just as we left the cafe. But unlike other days, this rain pounded us relentlessly. By the time we reached Forres, about eight miles later, we were soaked through to the skin. Recognizing our limit, our guides decided that today’s ride was over.

We packed our wet bodies into the van for the drive back to our hotel. After warm showers, we went out to a local restaurant for hot soup, then headed back for well-deserved naps. The white sands of the Moray Coast and its picturesque views would have to remain in our imaginations. Our final dinner together was another delicious meal, made unforgettable by a surprise musical sendoff. In walked a piper in full Scottish dress, the fierce, resonant notes of his bagpipe filling the room. While Edinburgh had treated us to many talented street performers, this man was truly masterful—a deeply fitting conclusion to our time in Scotland.

The final day of our tour started with a relaxed breakfast where we chatted about the wonderful adventure we had shared. We wondered if our paths would ever cross again and expressed our deep gratitude that Wilderness Scotland was our tour operator. Frankly, using the term “tour operator” does not do justice to the magnificent trip they led through Northeast Scotland. It was incredibly sad to say goodbye to them and to our fellow cyclists.

Detailed descriptions, photographs, and maps of our daily travels and the day touring Edinburgh can be found at Scotland2026.blogspot.com. Or if you just want to see some great pictures of our trip, they can be found at:

Edinburgh (pre-tour)        

Wilderness Scotland - tour  

Glasgow (post-tour)