Cycling the Ohio to Erie Trial

 (Photos by Joseph Insalaco)

When I told friends that I was going to cycle across Ohio, I was met with skepticism, and asked questions like, “why”, or “couldn’t you find something more interesting than Ohio”.  I am glad that I wasn’t discouraged by their comments.  The Ohio to Erie Trail is a gem and well worth the long drive it took to get there from Virginia. 

The Ohio to Erie Trail (OTET) extends 326 miles from the Ohio River at Cincinnati to Lake Erie’s shore in Cleveland. The OTET is made up of individual rail trails, canal paths, and some country roads and city streets.  In addition to the 2 terminus cities, the trail goes through Columbus (the state’s capital), Akron, and numerous quaint small towns and miles of pastoral countryside.  Even though the trail is named Ohio to Erie, we started at Lake Erie and cycled to the Ohio River.  From there we cycled back to Cleveland.  Our round-trip cycling journey totaled 650 miles.  Many more trip photos, routes, and daily miles can be seen on our trip blog.. (https://our-2022-otet-ride.blogspot.com/). 

Joe, my long-time cycling friend and blog photographer, and I drove to Cleveland, arriving in the early afternoon. Needing to stretch our legs after 6-hours in a van, we took a walking tour of the city’s lake shore. There we saw an old steam ship, a more interesting submarine, a statue honoring Jesse Owen, the Cleveland Brown’s football stadium, and the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. The one site that seemed to elude us was the International Women's Aviation Museum. I wanted to see the museum because I read several non-fiction and historical-fiction books about women's role in early aviation. Ironically, Cleveland hosted early National Air Races but denied women access. Despite having phones with map programs and a separate GPS we could not find the museum that was supposed to be “next” to the regional airport on the lake shore. Even though males don’t ask for directions, we did, and were told to walk another half mile past the airport. But the only thing we saw was the lake and parklands. Eventually, we turned around and went inside the airport to ask for help, but instead we found the museum; it was not next to, but in the airport. Finding the museum was well worth our effort. Inside we learned about some very amazing women.

      

                                     

Cycling from Cleveland to Akron

Our ride began in a rain that lasted about an hour.  The rain was just a minor nuisance and not worth the time to put on our rain gear. We traveled on city streets in marked cycle lanes until we reached the trail that led to Akron.  For the first several miles along the trail, we saw Cleveland’s historical industrial area.  While that maybe a turnoff to some, we found the dilapidated steel mills interesting and appreciated how the trail incorporated many of the industrial “castoffs” as trail art and educational sites.    We stopped at the Steel Heritage Center, to look at a steel ingot (a slab) several inches thick and several feet long that was formed into a coil of flat steel.  We also saw a massive railroad car used to transport the slag waste away from an iron furnace.  Further along the trail, we stopped at a display depicting a railroad roundhouse and a bench made from the wheel assembly of an abandoned rail car.

For breakfast, we sought out the Rawley Inn that was just off the trail and a few miles from our hotel.  The Rawley Inn is a Triple D featured restaurant (https://www.flavortownusa.com/locations/2342/rowley-inn/).  Although some of the menu items seemed exotic to our simple upbringings, our food was very good.  Across the street from the Rawley Inn is the house was used in the classic movie “Christmas Story” (https://www.achristmasstoryhouse.com/). This movie is a “must see” for my grandsons at Christmas. 

Next, we transitioned onto the Ohio and Erie Canal path. According to Wikipedia: The Ohio and Erie Canal, completed in 1832, connected Cleveland on Lake Erie to Cincinnati on the Ohio River, creating the state’s most important superhighway.  In the 1970s it became part of the Cuyahoga Valley National Park and eventually the trail evolved into a recreation corridor for cyclists and hikers.

We passed through many small towns and natural areas where wildlife abounded.  The canal’s waters hosted blue herons and the path was often blocked by flocks of geese that blocked the trail. Despite our noisy efforts, the geese did not want to move.

 We arrived in Akron in mid-afternoon. Not that we had lots of miles to cycle, but rather there was so much to see along the way and we made many photo stops. Akron was founded in 1825. Around the turn of the century, Akron’s tire manufacturing helped it become known as the “rubber capital of the world.” Other Akron trivia includes, the hamburger. It was supposedly invented there. Thomas Edison visited often (his wife was an Akronite). And, NBA superstar Labron James calls Akron home—and the Main Street was renamed “King James Way.”

Akron to Millersburg

We left Akron at first light without breakfast. At each of the trail’s road crossing we checked Google for nearby restaurants and asked other trail users if they knew of a place for breakfast. About 25 miles into our ride, we finally found a great breakfast at Sisters Café. After cycling on trails for 40 miles we had to transition unto country roads for about 20 miles of country roads. While almost no car traffic, there were many Amish buggies on the hilly roads. This section made us appreciate the relatively flat canal trail that we had been riding earlier that day. The last 10 miles of our day were back on a flat trail that had the distinction of being a cycling and buggy trail. We were told that these trails were meant to keep buggies and bicycles off the busy roads

Millersburg has a vibrant business district and we stayed in the Hotel Millersburg.  The hotel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and President Grover Cleveland reportedly stayed there on December 8, 1800. Besides hosting a president, the hotel also hosts quilter retreats and its halls were adorned with many intricate quilts. 

Near the end of our walking tour of Millersburg, we stopped at Troyer’s Sweet Shoppe were the Chocolatier, Verna provided us with some rich chocolates. She told us that she was the third generation Chocolatier in the shop founded by her grandmother.  As we wandered back to the hotel, we passed the Millersburg Creamery.  After eating more chocolates than a healthy diet would allow, we did restrain from getting ice cream at the very popular shop.  

Millersburg to Mt, Vernon

After 20 years of cycling trips, our ride from Millersburg to Mt. Vernon was one of the nicest cycling days either of us could remember.  Of course, we are old and our memories are disappearing. Really, we had great weather and fantastic cycling. (This is what my notes indicated, but as I write this story, I can’t remember any specifics.)

Our morning started with an early breakfast that we found only 3 blocks from our hotel.  We were surprised to find a restaurant that opened at 6 a.m.  Afterward, it was only a short, downhill ride from our hotel to the trail. This trail is a continuation of the bike/buggy trail we came into town on the previous day.  Our ride west was flat, straight, and fast.  The trail only lasted 7 miles before it ended and we had to cycle on country roads.  The roads could have been a continuation of the trail, because we did not see any cars.  This section was also about 7 miles long and had gentle rolling hills that allowed easy cycling.  Near the end of this segment, we heard the “clip clop” of horses gaining on us.  We were going 12 mph when 4 buggies easily passed.  They were filled with Amish families. 

When we got to the next trail, the buggies were stopped at a trailhead picnic area.  While they waved, we were not asked to join their picnic. So, we got on the trail and headed up the mountain.  The trail was another buggy/bike trail on a former railroad right-of-way.  We climbed for 3 miles on a gentle slope that allowed us to pedal at 10 mph with ease.  Along the way, many more buggies passed us but we did not see any other cyclists.

As we crested the mountain, we saw still more buggies.  Our descent on the other side of the mountain was equally as gentle as our climb. Thus, no screaming downhill ride.  This trail ended after 12 blissful miles.  We next transitioned through a small town and then got on our last trail for the day.  No buggies were allowed on this trail but we saw lots of walkers and cyclists.  Along the way, we cycled over the Bridge of Dreams, a 370-foot covered bridge located near Brinkhaven, Ohio. The 1920s bridge was built for the railroad and in 1998 was incorporated into the trail.  Reportedly, it is the second longest covered bridge in Ohio and third longest covered bridge in the United States. 

We stayed in the town of Mt. Vernon founded in 1805 and named after George Washington’s estate.  We saw a historical marker indicating that the town was the location of Johnny Appleseed’s first orchard.  The town was winner of Ohio Magazine’s 2018 Best Home Town award. The town was vibrant with restaurants and shops. We visited the Woodward Opera House, the oldest opera theater of its kind in the United States. The theater, after many years of renovation and restoration, had been transformed into a local cultural and performing-arts center.

Mt. Vernon to Columbus

We left Mt. Vernon early to beat the predicted rain and were successful.  Our ride was easy but temperature and humidity combined to create a steam bath.  The day’s “high points” were found between the 15- and 20-mile marks.  The first was a marker that indicated we were at the highest point on the Ohio to Erie Trail. 

We concluded that the rest of our journey would be easy because it would be downhill to the Ohio River.  The second marker indicated that we were at the halfway point to the Ohio River.

Near the second marker we met Dan, a trail volunteer assessing the trail’s condition after the previous night’s storm.  He mentioned that he knew 2 of the founders of Bikecentennial, Greg and June Siple who were from that part of Ohio.   Bikecentennial took thousands of cyclists across the United States in 1976 and led to the creation of the Adventure Cycling Association. The first part of Greg and June’s Hemistour from Alaska to Argentina was featured in National Geographic’s May 1973 magazine.

Columbus, Ohio’s capital city was entered by way of trails and marked cycling lanes on city streets. The first European settlers arrived in 1797. The city was named for Italian explorer Christopher Columbus and became the state capital in 1816. 

Columbus to Xenia

The start of our day was hot and it got hotter as the day progressed.  After about 7 miles of cycling, we found a place for breakfast.  Actually, we had a “choice” of either McDonalds or Tim Hortons.  Hum, American or Canadian fast-food breakfasts?  We chose Tim Hortons because we like their muffins.

While we saw lots of people on the trail and had extended conversations with two. First, we met William Galloway riding a Catrike (a 3-wheel recumbent) and pulling a trailer.

He was on his fourth trip across the United States in four years.   He was very pleasant and neat looking. William was in no hurry to move on, nor were we.  He surprised us by saying that he was homeless but never without a place to stay.  When he wasn’t in his tent or trail shelter, he was with friends or kind strangers. He said that he started his travels after recovering from a brain injury.  Over all, he has cycled 37,500 miles and gone through 3 trikes and 5 trailers.  The second person we met was Heidi.  She was setting up a lunch stop for 11 cyclists on a Wilderness Voyageurs tour on the OTET.  Her company is located in Ohiopyle, PA and provides fully supported bike adventures.  Each day we carried our own gear and looked for places to eat and sleep.  Heidi’s cyclists had their gear transported in a trailer to their next night’s lodging, breakfast and dinner in prearranged restaurants, and lunch provide during their ride.  Heidi filled our water bottles and shared some wonderful Amish pecan cinnamon rolls. 

The Ohio to Erie Trail is the overarching name and is comprised of many trails with their own names.  About half our day cycling to Xenia was on the Prairie Grass Trail.  It was freshly paved which was nice. However, the trail lacked much interest.  We saw mostly farm fields but we enjoyed the diversions through the small towns along the trail.  One of the towns, London, founded in the early 1800s, as a Methodist community. Next was Cedarville where we passed the Cedarville Opera House.  Finally, we arrived in Xenia which was founded in 1803, the same year Ohio was admitted to the Union. Xenia was once a safe haven for enslaved people traveling to freedom along the Underground Railroad. 

Xenia to Cincinnati

Again, we left our hotel without breakfast.  We had a long day ahead of us, so an early start was necessary.  What we failed to factor in was the impact of previous night’s severe thunderstorm.  Our first hour on the trail was in the dark, and we encountered 20 miles of downed branches and trees obstructing our passage.  It would have been a difficult obstacle course for us even if we had waited for the daylight. Along the way we cleared paths, cycled around debris, or lugged our bikes over fallen trees.  Our clean-up stops were met by hungry mosquitoes and Joe ended up with a poison ivy rash on his legs. 

The OTET has several internet sites that list trail construction and related detours.  Our first major detour took us off the trail and required us to climb a mountainous road to get around the closed area.  We survived the climb and stopped at the top at a Starbucks for some cold water.  Burt, the barista, filled our bottles with ice and cold water. In that heat, it was a wonderful treat.  While Burt was filling our bottles a little boy, in line with his mother, kept asking his mother about my cycling attire. He wanted to know what was on my arms (sun sleeves), on my hands (gloves), and on my head (helmet with sun shade). Mom kept trying to quiet the boy, but I gladly answered all his questions.  As you can guess, my cycling attire is not the typical stuff seen on road cyclists.

As the morning progressed, the trail was bordered by large trees providing a canopy cover of coolness to the day’s increasing heat.  As we entered Loveland Ohio, we quickly transitioned into the bright sunlight and a radically different trail.  We first saw a tropical drink stand just a step off the trail.  The barista was dishing ice into tall glasses that would soon be followed by bright colored syrups.  Next to it was a café with outdoor seating with umbrellas providing shade to its many customers. We then saw an outdoor picnic area with overhead misting pipes cooling off hot cyclists and hikers.  Looking further down the trail we could see restaurants, a bike shop, and hundreds of brightly colored canoes and kayaks ready for an adventure on the Little Miami River.  Loveland is a resort town, appropriately nicknamed “Little Switzerland of the Miami Valley”. It was no surprise that the town was full of people. We cycled through lots of towns on this and previous rides and wondered why more communities didn’t make their “trail-town” a unique destination.  

When we got into Cincinnati’s metropolitan area, we had about 10 miles of urban cycling.  While the traffic was ok, the roads were in poor condition making the day’s end even more challenging. At our hotel Joe looked at his phone and saw that it was 97 degrees with a “feels like” temperature of 111 degrees.  Despite the heat, we walked to another Triple D recommended restaurant, the Taste of Belgium (https://www.flavortownusa.com/locations/738/taste-of-belgium).  It was about a mile from our hotel.  The food was excellent but the walk was not.

Cincinnati to Mason

Leaving Cincinnati was more pleasant because of the cooler temperature and getting started before the morning rush hour traffic.  Once we got back on the rail-trail we saw lots of people out for their morning exercise.  A group of roadie cyclists pulled alongside of us and inquired about our journey. One woman, a self-confessed competitor, decided that I was slow, so she moved up next to Joe. Joe is not one to decline a challenge and they were off to the races.  Eventually, we all ended up in Loveland, OH, where we joined the roadies for coffee. During our conversation, we learned that some of the group had already done the complete OTET and planned to cycle the Great Allegany Passage (GAP) trail in Pennsylvania, the Chesapeake and Ohio (C&O) trail in Maryland, and the New River trail in Virginia. Since I had cycled all of these trails, I shared my thoughts and wished them great rides in all their travels. 

After the previous day’s 70-mile ride in the heat, we were thankful that we had planned to cut our trip back to Xenia into two segments of about 35 miles each.  The town of Mason was the best we could find with lodging.  However, it required us to cycle 5 miles off the trail for a hotel.  We were surprised to see a large amusement park called Kings Island and a stadium along the way.  The hotel in Mason did not have a guest laundry so we took advantage of the hot weather and hung our wash on a clothes line strung between our bikes in the hotel parking lot.  The sight generated lots of smiles and comments from other guests.  

Mason to Xenia

We cycled back to Xenia on a clean trail.  The maintenance crew did a fantastic job of cleaning up the storm damage we encountered when we left Xenia several days earlier.  

Before I left home, Helen (my wife) said that we should embrace our return ride because it will give us a different perspective.  We did see a few things that we missed on the way south so they were added to our trip’s photo gallery.  When heading south we were focused on dodging all the trail debris and failed to appreciate that we were cycling along the Little Miami River.  While the water was muddy and high from the earlier storms it was a packed with canoers and kayakers.  We wished that we had planned a day on the river. It would have been easy to arrange because we saw lots of canoe and kayak rentals facilities along this section of the trail. 

Xenia to Columbus

There is not much to see when you leave the hotel at 5 a.m. and cycle on a tree covered trail.  But then we didn’t care.  Our focus was to get an early start on a 60-mile day before the temperature got hot.  We pushed for 30 miles to reach London, OH where we stopped for breakfast. There we met another cyclist who said his trail name was Speedy.  Speedy endorsed our choice for breakfast, ignoring the reality that the nearby M&M Diner was the only place to eat. Speedy was on a new carbon fiber bike taking his initial shake-down cruise. Speedy told us that he cycles about 14,000 miles a year. With that kind of mileage, he deserved a new light-weight bike.

Nancy, Joe’s wife urged Joe to get out of the hotel and see Columbus, the capital of Ohio.  So, after cycling nearly 60 miles we took a 5-mile walk. Our first destination was Columbus’ German Village.  We were hoping to find a German restaurant for our dinner but only found a German coffee shop.  Next, we headed to the Ohio Statehouse that was begun in 1839.  After that, we headed to the Flat Iron Grill for our dinner and beers, both of which were excellent; and fortunately, the Grill was near our hotel. 

Columbus to Mt Vernon

We cycled 12 miles on the trail to reach our breakfast stop.  We knew that we picked a good place because it was packed with customers.  After a hardy breakfast we took an alternate route that took us off the OTET and went around Hoover Reservoir that is more than 10 miles long.  The nice thing about this route was that it was no longer than staying on the OTET.  Mostly it was on urban trails and roads with little traffic. The only downside was that we were exposed to the gusty winds blowing across the reservoir.  After 24 miles, we were back on the OTET and continuing to climb to its highest point, 1,285 feet.  While that may seem high, we reached this point over 3 days of cycling on 1 and 2 percent grades. We were easily able to cycle 12 mph most of the time.  After we crested the high point, our speed increased to 14-15 mph.  Near Mt. Vernon we saw lots of storm damage on the trails. We were told that 2 tornados had gone through there a few days earlier.

We arrived in Mt. Vernon only to find that George Washington was not there.  But we are sure you knew that.  We celebrated our day’s ride with a stop at a frozen custard shop (the first of the trip) and indulged in a cool treat.  We took another walking tour of Mt. Vernon and found that on our earlier visit we missed a whimsical dog fountain.    

Mt. Vernon to Millersburg

We had a short ride ahead of us, so we lingered at our hotel breakfast in Mt Vernon. Then we lingered on the trail, and finally we lingered in Millersburg waiting for our room to be ready. We should have lingered longer before leaving Mt Vernon because it was a cold 47 degrees in the morning.  Needless to say, we were bundled up with extra clothes that we had to strip off as the day warmed up. There was not much to see on the trail except for a jogger, who in full stride, was juggling 3 balls as we passed him. We were impressed.

Millersburg was still cleaning up after the tornado went through the area.  The trail into town was full of debris, and some of the restaurants did not expect to open for a few more days.  Also, it was a Sunday and the ice cream shop, candy shop, and brewery were closed.  We are thankful that we had a place to stay.

Millersburg to Akron

We left Millersburg very early because of the planned 70-mile ride and projected rain.  However, Joe discovered a short cut that saved us 14 miles of trail cycling.  The trail made a big “U-shaped” curve that we decided to cut straight across on a county road.  Unfortunately, the short cut had one very long and extremely steep hill that we had to walk. So, our 70-mile day became 54 miles (we don’t know what happened to the remaining few miles). Not much rain but very cool temperatures. We got into Akron at noon, checked into our hotel, and had our lunch/dinner.

Akron - Cleveland – Home

Our final bike ride to Cleveland was uneventful.  Both of us wanted to get home.  After nearly 40 miles of cycling, we loaded Joe’s van and headed east.   We arrived at my home in Virginia mid-afternoon and then Joe continued to his home in New York state, arriving in the evening.

Ohio River Ride 2019

Story by Jeffrey Heil

Photos by Joseph Insalaco

The name "Ohio" comes from the Seneca, Ohi:yo', meaning "Good River".  Numerous Native American civilizations lived along the Ohio River and used it for transportation and trading.  The Ohio River was instrumental in the westward expansion of the United States.  Lewis and Clark used the Ohio River to begin their exploration of the Louisiana Purchase.  During the 19th century, the river was the southern boundary of the Northwest Territory and part of the border between free and slave territories. Thus, it was the way to freedom for thousands of slaves escaping to the North using the Underground Railroad.

There are many journals of early Ohio River explorers and travelers.   We were most interested in Lewis and Clark’s travels because we had previously cycled their route from St. Louis, Missouri to Astoria, Oregon.   Meriwether Lewis started that journey in Washington DC where he received instructions from President Jefferson, obtained funding, and purchased equipment.  Lewis left DC on July 5, 1803 and traveled to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania where the Ohio River begins.  In September of that year, he loaded his boats, traveled down the Ohio River and met William Clark in Clarksville, Indiana. Together they floated down the Ohio to the Mississippi River then up to St. Louis.

The Ohio River, which flows southwesterly from Pittsburgh, to Cairo, Illinois, is a major tributary of the Mississippi River.  It is 981 miles long, and flows through or along the border of six states.  It took Lewis almost 6 months to reach St. Louis, we did it in less than 3 weeks.  Our road journey was 1,100 miles over 19 days with 17,763 feet of climbing.  Our daily journal, photos, and routes can be seen at ohioriverride2019.blogspot.com.

The Ohio River, before heading southwest, actually goes north from Pittsburgh.  Since we could not find a good route along its northern journey, we headed west over the hills from Pittsburgh to Lawrenceville, West Virginia.  There, we first saw the river and imagined floating a raft down to the Mississippi.

According to some of the early journals, the clay along the riverbanks was good for pottery and was the start of many settlements. The town of Newell, West Virginia was one of these towns where Laughlin Pottery was started in 1871.  Owensboro, Kentucky was originally known as "Yellow Banks" from the color of the land beside the Ohio River.  Marietta, Ohio dates to 1808 when a potter and his family settled there, making it one of the earliest pottery manufacturing sites in the entire Northwest Territory.  The town of Henderson, Kentucky also had its origins in the river’s clay.  It was initially called "Red Banks" because of the reddish clay soil of the bluffs overlooking the Ohio River.

We cycled in all 6 states that border the Ohio River.  We crossed the river several times, sometimes for better roads or interesting places, other times for lodging.   After we left Pennsylvania, we entered West Virginia but had to cross into Ohio for our first night’s lodging in Steubenville.  The soldiers of the 1st American Regiment built Fort Steuben to protect the government surveyors mapping the land west of the Ohio River, and named the fort in honor of Baron Friedrich Wilhelm von Steuben. When the surveyors completed their task a few years later, the fort was abandoned but the town survived.

In Sistersville, West Virginia we had planned to take the ferry across the river to cycle on the Ohio side.  When we got to the ferry it was “beached” and no one was around.  We cycled back into town where we were told that the ferry was no longer running.  We continued west on the West Virginia side to St. Marys, where we crossed the river and headed to Marietta, Ohio.  During 1788, pioneers established Marietta as the first permanent settlement of the new territory. After cycling an endless commercial strip to reach the old town, we visited a Gothic Revival house that was built in 1855. Over the years, the house hosted some of Marietta’s most prominent and influential citizens. Marietta is also home to a river boat museum.  Its collection includes the W.P. Snyder, Jr., the last steam powered towboat on the Ohio River.  While no longer steam powered, we saw many tugboats gracefully pushing barges 3-wide and 6-long up the river.



In Point Pleasant, West Virginia we sought out the Lowe Hotel, built in 1901.  The current owners purchased it in 1990 and restored it to its former glory.  Except for the window air conditioners and bathrooms, it is period correct. It is a family-run business and the family lives on the first floor.  Our hosts treated us to a room overlooking the Ohio River.  Wandering around the town, we discovered Mothman. His statue and museum were prominent downtown attractions.  Being totally clueless, we asked the hotel proprietor about Mothman.  He told us that a man that looked like a moth was spotted many times around town and predicted disasters, including the collapse of their bridge over the Ohio River in 1967.  After the bridge collapsed, Mothman disappeared but lives on with the town’s festival that brings in 15,000 visitors annually.  Additionally, Mothman’s prophesies were featured in 2002 movie, starring Richard Gere and Laura Linney.

Some days were full of diverse points of interest. For example, on our way to Huntington, West Virginia, our first stop was at a roadside historical sign that noted a Native American burial mound.  The sign was interesting, but as far as we could see, the terrain was flat.  Our next stop was at Green Bottom, the home of a Civil War General. Later, we came to Hillbilly Hot Dogs.  This restaurant was featured on the TV show Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, and looked “stereotypical hillbilly”.  In Huntington, we stopped at the Madie Carroll House.  The original section of the house was built prior to 1810 and is believed to have arrived by flatboat from Gallipolis, Ohio. As our eclectic day continued, we found a nice place for a late breakfast called Butter It Up.  Its name is derived from blending a tablespoon of butter into a cup of coffee before serving it.  We spent the night in Huntington and enjoyed its vibrant downtown, restaurants, and entertainment.  The town is home to Marshall University and young folks were everywhere.  (A 2006 movie “We are Marshall” depicts the University’s effort to recover after a plane crash takes the lives of most of Marshall University's football team.)

Joe does a wonderful job of planning our routes.  In the past, he has come up with some interesting ways to avoid traffic. We have gone through parking lots, industrial sites, the wrong way on one-way streets, on narrow paths that were trails in name only, over abandoned bridges, and through construction sites.  To avoid the busy highway into Ironton, Ohio, we cycled thru a cemetery, a first for us.  Ironton has miles of brick streets and very well-kept old homes. The town was founded in 1849 by John Campbell, a prominent pig iron manufacturer.  Between 1850 and 1890, Ironton was one of the foremost producers of iron in the world.

Many towns along the Ohio are noted for their flood wall murals.  Portsmouth, Ohio started its painting in 1993, creating a mural 20 feet high x 160 feet long. The mural project was completed in 2002 with 2,200 feet of art along the Ohio River. The project is the largest known work of art by a single artist.


One river crossing took us from Ohio to Maysville, Kentucky, where we planned to spend the night.  We had to cross the Simon Kenton Memorial Bridge built in 1931. Its main span is 1,060 feet long, and the total length of the bridge is 1,991 feet. Maysville is a neat little town with a vibrant downtown, many historic sites, and plenty of restaurants.  We stopped at the National Underground Railroad Museum, which is housed in a former safe house. Next we toured the Kentucky Gateway Museum that contains regional history and over 4,000 artifacts. We also saw the Russell Theatre which was the site of the world premiere of Rosemary Clooney's first film (“The Stars Are Singing”, in 1953).  Maysville also has flood wall murals depicting the town’s history.

“Believe it or not”, we visited a second town named Ripley. It was in Ohio, the first one was in West Virginia.  The Ohio town was named in 1816 to honor General Eleazar Wheelock Ripley, an American officer of the War of 1812.  There we stopped at John Parker’s house.  He was an American abolitionist, inventor, iron molder and industrialist. Parker, who was African American, helped hundreds of slaves to freedom through the Underground Railroad. He was one of the few blacks to patent an invention before 1900. His house in Ripley is designated a National Historic Landmark and has been restored.  Next, we walked our bikes up a half mile hill that was too steep to ride. At the top we visited John Rankin's house and enjoyed a marvelous view of the Ohio River. John Rankin was a Presbyterian minister, educator and abolitionist. Upon moving to Ripley in 1822, he became known as one of Ohio's first and most active "conductors" of the Underground Railroad.  In contrast to Rankin’s home and view we next stopped at Ulysses S. Grant's birthplace.  The house was so small it could be included in the TV show that features tiny homes.

Our introduction to Indiana was interesting. Twenty-five miles from our destination, our route was marked “road closed in 3.5 miles, local traffic only”.  The detour, which would involve a big climb in the heat of the day, was not appealing.  We ignored the warning and kept cycling along the river and came to the second sign that read “road closed in 1 mile, blah, blah, blah.”  We also ignored this warning and eventually went thru the construction site, between barricades and road graders, but on fresh asphalt.  Thankfully, we stayed the course because our route took us to the town of Patriot, Indiana.  We arrived just as the town’s July 4th parade ended. The folks must have needed a boost to get through the post-parade letdown as we became the center of attention with our loaded bikes and Joe taking pictures.  One family approached us because their 3-year-old daughter wanted to share her “parade-float candy” with us.  Also, several teenage boys marveled that we had just cycled all the way from Cincinnati, Ohio.

While most of our time was spent cycling on road ways, we did enjoy some great trails in Wheeling, West Virginia, Cincinnati, Ohio, and Louisville, Kentucky.  The Louisville Loop Trail was along the river and provided about 2 hours of traffic-free cycling that took us near West Point, Kentucky.  There, we stopped at a small farmers market to purchase fruit.  We met some nice folks who asked about our travels and shared some local history.  Before leaving, they gave us peaches and brownies.  The peaches were ripe, juicy, and delicious.  The brownies were also excellent and later served as our lunch.  Those nice people made our day.




We started out for Lewisport, Kentucky at dawns first light, but the thick fog made seeing anything difficult.  Other senses took over and the unseen were heard--birds chirping, cows mooing, donkeys baying, woodpeckers tapping, and dogs barking.   Horse’s hoofs clopped up the hill faster than we pedaled our bikes as a Mennonite carriage approached.  Later, we stopped at an old house that was undergoing renovation which belonged to Joseph Holt.  He was a member of the President Buchanan administration and convinced Buchanan to oppose the secession of the South. He returned to Kentucky and successfully battled the secessionist element to keep Kentucky in the Union.  President Abraham Lincoln appointed him Judge Advocate General of the United States Army. He served as Lincoln's chief arbiter and enforcer of military law, and supporter of emancipation.


After all that history and several serious hills, we found the River View Restaurant on the top of our second climb.  The view was fantastic and the food good (sandwiches, ice tea, and strawberry pie).  The owner and several patrons stopped at our table to hear of our adventure.

Owensboro, Kentucky also proved to be an interesting stop.  It is the fourth-largest city in the state by population. The first European descendant to settle in Owensboro was frontiersman William Smothers in 1797, for whom the riverfront park is named.  While Lewis and Clark wintered there, we made a short stop at a funky coffee shop for breakfast and visited Smothers Park and the International Blue Grass Museum.

Leaving Kentucky, we crossed the river to Illinois.  Our first stop was in Old Shawneetown, said to be the oldest town in Illinois.  However, all that remains is a stately old bank building.  Because of flooding, the town moved 3 miles further from the river.  As we got deeper into Illinois, we found a most welcomed sight on a long (70 mile) hot (90 degree) day. The Garden of the Gods Outpost served us much needed and enjoyed hot dogs and ice cream—a real treat.  The owner, Elizabeth, took good care of us.  Later she posted our picture on Facebook with a mention of our journey.  There we also met a family from Texas, who like us, were following the Ohio River, but in the opposite direction and in a car. They were interested in our suggestions of things to see and do along the river. After lunch, we cycled thru the Garden of the Gods Recreation Area—a 3,300+ acres of natural forested terrain, rock formations and bluffs.

We spent a great deal of time planning our routes to assure that each day ended with a place to sleep and eat.  However, our stop in Cairo, Illinois proved our fallibility.  The restaurant next to our hotel had closed and the nearest one was 8 miles away.  The “sympathetic” hotel clerk suggested that we walk across the highway to a Dollar General and get a supper that we could cook in the room’s microwave.   After a long look at all the “great” options we settled on frozen chicken pies, fruit cups, cookies, and chocolates.  Needless to say, we looked forward to the morning’s hotel breakfast, but alas, it proved to be equally unappetizing.  The next day we began our ride hungry and faced another challenge.  Our planned route to cross the Mississippi River into Missouri was closed due to flooding.  A motorist told us that this part of Illinois had been flooded for most of the summer and that access to the bridge had been closed for a month.   Since we were heading north anyway, we stayed in Illinois and went to Anna, Illinois, where motels and food were available.  This route took us thru Jonesboro, Illinois were Lincoln and Douglas had their famous debate and where Mom’s Café served us lunch and some motherly advice.

We wanted to cycle Missouri because it offered a better route to Chester Illinois, our next stop.  Staying in Illinois was fine until we got to within 15 miles of Chester.  There we encountered a stream of tractor trailer trucks hauling gravel to a barge loading site.  While not much fun getting to Chester, the town was nice.  Chester is the home of the creator of the cartoon “Popeye,” and is adorned with many Popeye related figures and artwork.  In addition, in 2002 we stayed there when we were cycling across the United States.  Back then we camped in the city park, cooked over a camp stove, and used a pit toilet.  This time we “camped” in an air-conditioned motel with hot showers, and had our dinner delivered. 

Leving Chester was our last cycling day as we headed to St. Louis, Missouri.  The transition between rural cycling and our first view of St. Louis’ tall buildings was surprising.  We were still in the country but looming in front of us was the city.  From St. Louis we loaded our bikes into a rental van and drove back to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, where our personal vehicles were waiting for our travels home.  It was a wonderful journey following the westward expansion of our nation and learning about the Underground Railroad.